The Burdo Zone


Monday, September 8, 2008

This past week, I have been able to return to the Methow and add a few new embellishments which should be noted for the guidebook. September and October are my favorite months in the Methow, and if you see a guy hanging out on the rock with cleaning tools where his quickdraws should be, just call me "Dusty" and I'll know that you read this post :)

-On Sunbug Slab, Fun Rock, the route formerly known as "Two Bolts Or Not 10b" (p.19) is now a sport climb. I re-cleaned the entire pitch and it now has ten bolts instead of the original two. With wonderfully featured holds and a direct line, it is now one of the finest sport routes at Fun, three stars without a doubt. I will probably re-name it to reflect it's new status. If you prefer to try to re-create some of the adventure of the original, clip only the fourth and eighth bolts :)

- This past weekend I field tested my new wire brushes by installing a new route just to the right of "Bolterheist" (p.18): "Riled Child" 5.6. This route is steep and super-featured with some ornate handgrips; I'm giving it three stars despite it still being dusty and gritty from all the cleaning (two days worth for a 50-foot pitch ).

-Check out the classic bouldering traverse on the small wall 100' South of the "Steppenruf" area of Fun. I just re-cleaned it and it has 80+ feet of great climbing on all manner of holds, rising uphill with generally minmal fall consequences. It starts from about 5.8 on the lower section on huge jugs, then ascends to smaller face holds and finish options in the V1 range. A great warm-up or as a quick morsel of climbing between entrees.

-I upgraded the trail into the Mother Lode bouldering area (p.77), so go check out some of the friendly challenges waiting there (more on the way)

Thanks to all who have provided the great feedback and encouragement since the release of the guidebook. Climb safely and enjoy your time in the sun.